Tranquebar - The Land of the Singing Waves

"And in 1620, the Danish set up an establishment in Tranquebar."

It was during a fascinating history class in college when I first heard of the place. It had an unusual ring to it. The name stuck on.

In December 2004 when the tsunami hit Tamil Nadu, Tranquebar was in the news for the widespread destruction that had occurred. It piqued my interest once again. There was a mysterious aura about the place and I knew that I had to make a trip there sometime soon.

What I found amusing was that hardly anybody seemed to know about this heritage village and there was scarce information available in travel guides, books and... hold your breath... on the internet. I had to stall my plans for the next 8 years.

April 2012. The folks and I decided to venture into unknown territory. We combed the internet for any kind of  lead that would help us plan a holiday and we struck gold. After making reservations at the hotel, we loaded the car with the dogs, suitcases, supplies and we were off.

The 11 hour drive via Chidambaram ultimately led us to an old gateway with a board next to it that said "Welcome to Tharagambadi".

The stickiness in the air, the familiar smell of the sea, the almost ghostly mood...we had definitely arrived.

The first thing that struck me about Tranquebar was its unconsumed flavour. Apart from the local population, there were hardly any people around. The narrow, unpaved pathways, the picturesque rocky shores, the quaint houses with antique lamp posts intact...  We had entered a timeless era which was charmingly simple yet enchanting.

A quick and satisfying dinner at the hotel, a lazy stroll by the sea and we were ready to call it a day.

The morning started with us thrashing in the waves. In terms of cleanliness, the beach leaves a lot to be desired but its unpopulated nature almost makes up. The dogs got a bout of uninterrupted swimming while we enjoyed the breeze and hum of a very composed sea. We wolfed down our breakfast and headed out for a heritage walk with a local guide.

If the thought of derelict buildings, classic architecture, rustic sights and bits and pieces of history enthrall you, then Tranquebar is the place to be. From an old, wearied fort, a couple of museums, cemeteries and a reconstructed church to the home of the first Tamil printing press, a temple washed away by the ocean and bungalows with stories galore, the guide offered us a glimpse of the Danish life and religion. Repeated failures in business dealings forced the Danes to leave in 1845 after selling their possessions to the British but they succeeded in leaving a significant mark on this sleepy village.  Our last stop was the Tranquebar Cultural Resource Centre where Upasana (the NGO) works extensively to uplift the women of the village who lost their families to the giant, ominous wave.

      

We spent the evening in the sea, soaking up a gentler form of the sun and playing "Fetch" with two over enthusiastic Labs. We came back to the rooms and lay on the wooden chairs; allowing the beauteous landscape to cast its spell on us.  After a relaxed dinner at the Bungalow On the Beach, we ambled around the erstwhile Danish parade ground and retired for the night. The next morning we packed our stuff and started our drive back to Bangalore.

When people ask me what I did in Tranquebar, I don't have a specific answer. I didn't do the regular holiday-by-the-beach routine but still there was lots that I absorbed. Some places display a keen sense of aesthetics at every turn and the more you delve in them, the more covetous you become. The tiled roofs, the tiny stone maps, the eerie silence after sunset, the grey shade of the water,  the moonlit sky, the feeling of anonymity... my senses were rightly stimulated and I couldn't get enough of all that and more. Another visit is definitely on the cards whenever I feel like being enveloped by nothing-ness and recharging my batteries.

"Glory is fleeting, but obscurity is forever." - Napolean Bonaparte


Ageless, beguiling, dreamy... Tranquebar is a well kept secret and something tells me that it wishes to stay that way. 

Places to Stay:


The Bungalow on the Beach
Nayak House
Tamil Nadu Guest House


We picked Nayak House as we had our pets with us and thus had to book all three rooms. The place is beautifully done up with extremely clean rooms and loos. The doors open out to a sprawling lawn. Perfect setting for your morning chai, watching the sun go down and unwinding.


Food:


The Bungalow on the Beach offers a simple, tasty affair (Veg and Non Veg). The courteous staff ensures that you enjoy your meals there. With a day's notice, the Craft Cafe at TCRC can organise a complete South Indian meal. (Veg.)

Read the book. Watch the movie. Live the experience. Every bit is worth it!

The Calcutta Chromosome

The first time I started the book, I read a couple of pages and put it away. I am not someone who particularly enjoys science fiction. A few days ago, I thought I would give it another shot (after all, the story is set in Calcutta). I found myself rushing through the pages!

Complex, eerie, witty, imaginative. In one word, mindblowing! Amitav Ghosh takes you through a real roller coaster ride and leaves you wanting more. Who would have thought that Malaria could be turned into something so fascinating? There are still a few questions lingering in my mind... Especially enjoyed the way time travels through the book.

Next on the list: Superfreakonomics/The Time Traveller's Wife.

Dharamsala Diaries

For a long time, I wanted to work in a school in a small village called Gamru, close to McLeodganj. Picking up a travelogue on Dharamsala was the first step. My teaching plans went kaput but the book kept me engrossed.

Dharamsala Diaries by Swati Chopra is a wonderful book. It offers you a glimpse of the Tibetan settlement and daily living in the area, a clear picture of the volatile political situation, an introduction to philosophy and Buddhism and is generously sprinkled with interesting tidbits of trivia. The language is lucid, free flowing and conjures a number of pleasant mental images. Most definitely worth a read.

Visiting Himachal Pradesh is on my bucket list for sure.

Gokarna

A trip that was long overdue. I first heard about the loveliness of Gokarna when a friend of mine had gone there for a photo shoot. She couldn't stop raving about the auto rides up and down the hills, the lazy beaches and of course, the overtly popular Namaste cafe. Another friend described it as "what Goa was 30 years ago". Since then I knew I had to explore and travel a little.

So off we went. 5 girls, 1 boy and lots of luggage. The best way to travel to this sleepy little place is by bus (rather comfortable and economical). We boarded the bus at 7:30 PM and reached twelve hours later. Now most places do not make bookings online so it is at the auto stand that you decide where you'd like to stay; the two main options being Kudle beach or the famous Om beach. We picked Kudle and took off - bag and baggage and us in two autos.

The ride to the beach was mostly smooth and extremely bumpy in patches. Sometimes you wonder how that tiny vehicle manages to pull itself up the hill!Nonetheless, we reached with no broken bones and were giddy with excitement. The autos dropped us off amidst some trees and crates of aerated drinks. This was just the beginning...

You see, we were still on the hill. There was lots more to cover before we could hit the water. And thus began our journey down the wearied path. We walked... and walked... It felt like a mini trek but was so worth it. Why? Because the sea looked inviting and absolutely amazing!

There are several places to choose from right on the beach. We picked Spanish Place and were given neat, clean rooms. Even the common loos were well maintained. Apart from basic necessities, what else does a traveller really need? Ummmm....

Simple answer. Food. At least this bunch of travellers. With our grumbling tummies, we parked ourselves in the closest shack and grabbed a bite. Make that a very BIG bite. With the healthy number of foreign tourists Gokarna brings in, the food in most of these eateries ranges from Italian, Chinese, continental to Indian and Israeli. Some claim to be German bakeries too. Taste-wise, the grub is good and reasonably priced. Came up to about 100/- per meal. Prawn curry rice ruled my list :)

Post breakfast, we frolicked in the water. splish!-splash!-splush!... After one very wet affair, it was time to laze around like beached whales. The sun was shining brightly but like we cared. There was pit digging, sand bathing, gossiping, pseudo calendar photo shooting, facebook photo shooting and beer drinking. Sand is therapeutic. I can never get tired of playing with it!

A nice bath was followed by some more eating. We picked the pizza place (Rock Namaste Cafe) and boy oh boy! Undoubtedly the best cheese olive tomato pizza I've eaten in my life. The same night I also learnt that Fish as a pizza topping is a BAD idea. And it was off-putting to see yogurt (Yo-Curd as the locals call it) served with burritos!

Day two was spent on Om beach. To get to the other side, we went up our little path yet again and walked till we saw the walls of Namaste Cafe. I make it sound effortless. In reality, we were running out of breath and the sun kept sucking up all the energy! But we reached and treated ourselves to a well deserved breakfast. Eggs, toast, hash browns, pancakes and milkshake - all got along well with our appetites. A deal was struck with the boat guys and we were sailing off to Long Beach (picked it over Paradise beach). Long beach isn't very long as the name may mislead you to believe. The sand is gravelly as compared to Kudle but the sea is calmer. Perfect for some mindless floating and a game of swim-tag. The boat came back in 2 hours and picked us up. We saw a few dolphins on the ride back. A slow lunch at Namaste (with some very avoidable dessert), a quick walk to the top and we were on our way back to Kudle.

Our last day, we BLUFFed our way through a couple of games, played 10 card Uno and stayed in the water for a while. That's all that we did. After a quick shower and meal, we jumped into the auto and went back to the town to board our bus.

On the whole, the trip was a laidback, uneventful, fun time. Gokarna does have a couple of temples but none of us was interested. The beach was far more tempting. Happy memories that I take back are: the star studded sky on both nights, the singing waves as we binged, the indolent cows on Om beach, a couple of crazy stories and the fresh coconut water from the village near by. Apart from the sunburn and now peeling noses and cheekbones, it is a place worth visiting again when all you want to do is peace out.

A three day trip (during off season) would cost Rs. 4000/- per head (inclusive of travel, food and stay). It is wiser to carry cash as there are hardly any ATMs around. The auto rides cost Rs. 150/- for three people. Beer is about 100/- per bottle

Must carry: Mosquito coil/repellent, sunscreen, torch, games. Everything else is easily available/not required :)

Next on the list: Pondicherry/Tranquebar.

Soul Sister - Train

A friend got me addicted to this one. The ukulele in the background makes it a peppy, fun track. Should try it while running.

Catch it here

Starting off with a movie that I adore. You have to watch it to know why. Witty dialogues, heartening chemistry, marvelous acting, fantastic music and a simple story.

When Harry Met Sally is the perfect flick to watch on a lazy Sunday afternoon. It makes you smile and warms the cockles of your heart without overdoing the mush. Meg Ryan and Billy Crystal make you want to fall in love with this one.

And I too think that that hieroglyphics are just an ancient comic strip about a character named Sphinxy.